How to Mount a Scope on a .22: Dovetail, Picatinny and Ring Height

Mounting a scope on a centerfire rifle is mostly a matter of bolting rings to a Picatinny rail. Rimfires are messier. One rifle has grooves milled into the receiver, the next has a screwed-on base, a third has an 11mm dovetail, and the rings at the store are labeled in fractions of an inch, in millimeters, or not at all. Get it wrong and the scope walks under recoil, sits too high to get a cheek weld, or won't clear the bolt handle.

This guide explains the mounting systems and the sequence, so the job goes right the first time. It's an editorial reference built from manufacturer and published specs, not a step-by-step for your exact rifle. Your rifle's manual and the ring maker's instructions come first.

Know your mounting system

Look at the top of your receiver. You'll find one of four setups.

The two dovetail sizes are the main trap. The old American 3/8-inch groove is close to 11mm, but not identical, and dovetail profiles vary between makers. Rings sold for one may clamp poorly on the other. If your manual or the maker's spec sheet names the size, buy to that. For instance, American Rifleman's review of the Tikka T1x describes an 11mm dovetail on top of the receiver, and the CZ 457 also uses an 11mm dovetail. If you're unsure, a dovetail-to-Picatinny adapter turns the receiver into a rail and opens up the widest choice of rings.

Choosing ring height

Go as low as possible while still clearing everything. A low scope gives a better cheek weld and less offset between the bore and the line of sight, which matters at the short distances rimfire is shot at. The limits are:

• The objective bell must clear the barrel. Larger objective lenses need taller rings.
• The eyepiece must clear the bolt handle through its full lift, and the rear sight if you leave it on.
• The turrets must clear the ring caps.

Measure, don't guess. Lay the scope next to the receiver, then estimate how much space you need between the lowest point of the objective and the barrel. Ring makers publish a center height for each ring size, so you can work out whether a set will clear. Leave a little room. A business card's thickness between the bell and the barrel is the usual rule of thumb.

Tube diameter matters too. Most rimfire scopes use a 1-inch tube; some use 30mm. Rings must match the tube exactly.

How to mount a scope on a .22, step by step

1. Clear and secure the rifle. Unloaded, action open, in a padded vise or rest so it sits level and steady.
2. Degrease the screws and holes if you're fitting a base. Check the base is the right one for your model, and that the screws are the correct length. A screw that's too long can protrude into the action.
3. Install the base (if your rifle uses one), tightening screws evenly to the base maker's torque spec. Use thread locker only if the maker recommends it.
4. Fit the ring bottoms. On a dovetail, slide or clamp them on and make sure each ring's recoil pin or stop, if it has one, sits in a hole or against the back of the dovetail. On a rail, push each ring forward in its slot before tightening, so recoil can't shift it.
5. Set the scope in loosely and fit the caps finger-tight. Slide the scope fore and aft to set eye relief: in your normal shooting position, you should see a full, crisp picture without craning forward. Set it at the highest magnification you'll use, because eye relief often shrinks as power goes up.
6. Level the reticle. Level the rifle first, then rotate the scope until the vertical crosshair is plumb. A small level on the rifle and another on the turret cap make this easier, or hang a plumb line downrange and line up on it.
7. Tighten the caps evenly. Work in a crossing pattern, a little at a time, and keep the gaps between cap and base even on both sides. Use the ring maker's torque spec, and don't exceed it, because too much torque can dent a scope tube.
8. Recheck everything. Bolt handle clearance through its full stroke, eye relief, level and every screw.
9. Bore-sight and zero. Look through the bore from the breech on a bolt gun, or use a bore-sight, then move to paper. Our rimfire zeroing guide covers 25, 50 and 75 yard zeros.

Rifle-specific notes

Ruger 10/22

The 10/22 receiver is drilled and tapped for a base. Check whether your rifle came with one and whether it accepts dovetail or Picatinny rings before buying anything. If you're comparing 10/22 trims first, see our Sporter vs Takedown guide. Ammunition Depot's scope mounts category lets you filter by weapon platform.

Lever-action .22s

Many lever guns eject or load in ways that make a standard receiver mount awkward. Henry, for example, sells a Golden Boy cantilever Weaver-style base that attaches to the barrel and puts the rail ahead of the action. Check that any base matches your exact model.

Precision bolt guns

For NRL22-style shooting, many owners fit a dovetail-to-Picatinny rail with built-in elevation (often 20 or 30 MOA). This lets the scope reach longer distances without running out of turret travel. It's easier to do from the start than to fix later.

Red dots and small optics

Most small red dots mount to Picatinny or to a plate with a specific footprint. On a .22 rifle with a rail, a low Picatinny mount puts the dot close to the bore. On a dovetail-only receiver, an adapter rail is the cleanest route. Red dots don't have eye relief or parallax concerns the way scopes do, but the same rules apply for torque and level. Our rimfire optics guide covers when a dot beats a scope.

What to buy

• Rings: matched to your mounting system and tube diameter. Ammunition Depot's scope rings category lists 1-inch and 30mm rings in several heights; confirm the dovetail size or rail type on each listing.
• Bases and adapters: the mounts category above includes Picatinny bases and mount-ring combos.
• Scope: a rimfire scope with parallax set close, or adjustable down to 25 yards. Our rimfire vs centerfire scope article explains why. Browse the rifle scopes category or the red dot category.

Mistakes that cause most problems

• Mixing dovetail sizes and calling it close enough. If rings don't clamp squarely, the scope can shift under recoil.
• Rings too high because they were the ones on the shelf. Your head lifts off the stock, and groups suffer.
• Over-torquing caps and dimpling the tube, which can bind the internal adjustments.
• Skipping the recoil stop on dovetail rings. Rimfire recoil is light, but repeated firing can still walk a ring backward.
• Not checking bolt clearance until the first shot, when the bolt handle hits the eyepiece.

Editorial note: This is an independent editorial reference built from manufacturer information, retailer listings and published reviews. We have not performed hands-on testing. Follow your rifle's manual and the ring and base makers' instructions and torque specs, and use a qualified gunsmith if you're unsure.

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