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Aguila Super Extra .22 LR: 40gr Solid vs 38gr HP vs Plated

Aguila's Super Extra name covers several different bullets. Here is how to tell the 40-grain solid points from the 38-grain hollow point, and which one deserves your first magazine.

Short answer

For a semi-auto you have not fed Aguila before, start with a 40-grain solid point, because a round nose usually feeds smoothly. Choose the 38-grain hollow point when you want expansion on small game, and test whichever you pick before committing to a 500-round brick.

Same brand, different bullets

"Aguila Super Extra" is a product family, not a single load. The retailer listings we link to describe three distinct items: a 40-grain high-velocity solid point sold in a 500-round pack, a 40-grain copper-plated solid point, and a 38-grain high-velocity copper-plated hollow point. They look interchangeable on a shelf. They are not quite interchangeable in a gun.

Here is what the listing names tell you, and just as importantly what they leave out.

Listing Bullet as listed What the name tells you What to confirm on the box
Super Extra 40gr HV SP, 500 rounds 40-grain solid point Labeled high velocity; large pack Plating, exact velocity class
Super Extra 40gr copper-plated SP 40-grain solid point, copper-plated Plated bullet; pack size is on the listing page Whether it is sold as high velocity
Super Extra 38gr HP 38-grain hollow point High-velocity hollow point Plating, pack size

One honest limitation: the two 40-grain listings sound close enough that you could reasonably wonder whether they are the same bullet in different packaging. The names do not settle that, and we have not handled either box. Read the specification block on each listing and the print on the carton, and treat any difference in plating or velocity class as the thing you are actually buying.

Solid point or hollow point

The 40-grain solid points and the 38-grain hollow point are separated by only two grains of weight. The shape of the nose is the bigger difference.

A solid, round-nosed bullet rides up the feed ramp and into the chamber with very little to catch. A hollow point has a blunter profile and a sharper-edged tip, and some actions and some magazine lips handle that less gracefully. In practice that means hollow points are the more likely of the two to cause a nose-dive or a hang-up in a gun that is already marginal, while the solid point is the more forgiving choice.

Hollow points exist for a reason, though. On small game, a bullet designed to open up transfers energy more effectively than a solid that punches through. If squirrels and rabbits are why you own a .22, the hollow point is the logical load and the feeding risk is something you test for rather than avoid. Our small-game hunting guide covers load choice and range limits, and local regulations decide what is legal to hunt with where you live.

Which one runs in a semi-auto

Most .22 LR semi-autos are blowback designs, so the cartridge itself supplies the energy that works the action. That is why high-velocity, copper-plated ammunition is the standard recommendation for them, and why all three of these listings are plausible fits.

Within that set, a sensible order of operations for an unfamiliar gun is:

  1. Start with the 40-grain solid point. It is the lowest-risk bullet shape.
  2. Move to the 38-grain hollow point only if the solid point runs cleanly and you want expansion.
  3. Do not judge the gun or the ammunition on a single magazine. Use at least a few, and use more than one magazine if you own more than one.

If the gun stumbles on all of them, the cause is probably not the brand. Work through the sequence in our semi-auto jam guide: ammunition, cleanliness, magazine, extractor, springs. Lightweight pistols are the pickiest hosts, so give them the most careful testing. For gun-by-gun advice on what each action wants, start with the rimfire rifle guide.

Running a suppressor? High-velocity loads can be supersonic, which means they still make the crack a suppressor cannot remove. Quiet shooting is a different ammunition choice. See the subsonic .22 LR comparison.

The 500-round brick as a buying unit

The large pack is the reason this family gets recommended for plinking: a single purchase covers several range sessions, and one lot number means consistent behavior across the whole stack. That consistency is also the argument for caution. If the first box does not suit your gun, you have the same problem 500 times.

A better habit is to treat the first purchase as a test, not a stockpile:

Browning's 400-round pack is the obvious comparison; see the Browning BPR guide. For the economics of buying in volume, see our guide to what bulk .22 LR actually gets you.

Pick this if

What this family is not

It is not match ammunition. Bulk plated .22 LR is built to be affordable and to run in common guns, not to deliver the consistency that benchrest and smallbore shooters seek. If you ever chase tiny groups, the answer is lot testing and different ammunition, not a better brick of the same thing; the rim thickness sorting article explains why consistency at the rim matters more than the label on the box.

For what it is, a plated Aguila pack from a lot that your gun likes is a perfectly sensible plinking staple. The only wrong move is skipping the test.

Editorial note: This is an independent editorial overview built from manufacturer specifications and publicly available information. We have not performed hands-on testing of the products discussed, and nothing here is a performance guarantee. Verify specifications, compatibility and legality for your own situation.

Frequently asked questions

Is Aguila Super Extra high velocity or standard velocity?

The listings linked here are labeled high velocity (one by name, one as a high-velocity hollow point). Aguila also sells other .22 LR lines, so confirm the velocity class on the box in your hand rather than assuming from the brand.

Will Aguila Super Extra cycle a Ruger 10/22 or a Kel-Tec P17?

High-velocity, copper-plated loads are the usual starting point for blowback semi-autos, so these are reasonable candidates. Every gun and magazine combination differs, so run a few magazines before buying a large quantity.

Should I buy the hollow point or the solid point?

Solid points tend to feed more smoothly in a wider range of actions. Hollow points are chosen for small game where expansion matters. For pure plinking, the solid point is the lower-risk first purchase.

Is a 500-round brick too much to start with?

If you have never run the load in your gun, yes. Buy the smallest quantity that lets you test several magazines, and move to the larger pack once it has proven reliable.

Related reading

Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links to Ammunition Depot. We may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. Our editorial choices are not influenced by commissions. Check current price, stock and specifications directly with the retailer.